WOLFFLIN’S CONCEPT OF STYLE AND ITS RELATION TO THE CHIKAN EMBROIDERY

Abstract

Chikan embroidery holds significance owing to its royal patronage and origin that is discussed in the paper. The scholarship also points out striking similarities between the motifs used in chikan embroidery and those used on Mughal architecture.  A comparative analysis of the two motifs (chikan motif and Mughal Architectural motif),  is done in the first half of the paper by using Wolfflin’s concept of  National style as a methodology which also helps in tracing chikan’s origin and royal patronage.  While studying and researching on the Lucknawi Chikan Sari from the Losee Collection, it has been concluded by data analysis that floral Chikan motifs used on the sari in question bear a striking resemblance to the architectural decorations in relief or embossed motifs, and the Mosaic tile decorations visible on the Mughal monuments in India that were built during the 16^thand following centuries. In order to prove this notion it is essential to do a detailed analysis of chikan embroidery by tracing its historical reconstruction, origin, similarity and comparison with decorative Mughal architectural motifs by applying the compare and contrast principles of Wolfflin.There is currently no existing scholarship, which uses Wolfflin’s compare and contrast principles and concept of style as a methodology in order to do a comparative analysis of the floral motifs used in Chikan embroidery and the relief and embossed decorative motifs and mosaic tile decorations used on Mughal Architecture from 16^th century onwards. Thus, this comparison and association will be discussed in detail for the first time in this paper .The close association between these two motifs is proven by using Wolfflin’s concept of National style as a methodology to do an in-depth analysis of the two discussed motifs.  Wolffflin’s scholarship on National Style aids in tracing chikan embroidery’s origin and patronage.  The second half of the paper uses Wolfflin’s concept of Individual Style and Period Style as a methodology to do a technical analysis of the chikan embroidery from the Lucknow region also referred to as Lucknawi chikan embroidery. This part of the paper discusses, as well as compares the differences and changes in the style of Lucknawi chikan embroidery and stitches used in various periods from the 1950’s through the 21^st century in the craft of chikan from Lucknow region.